Hobby²

2007-07-26T00:50:00.000-04:00

Well, no progress on the models... Sorry... I did however go UP in hobby-grade R/C by going nitro! W00t! Specifically, Team Associated's RC10GT2 RTR. I would've chosen the kit but I didn't have enough cash to purchase engine, fuel, etc. I'm also proud to run Tornado fuel! Tornado fuel is a European brand of nitro R/C fuel. I believe its the only non-American R/C fuel out there.

A cool thing is that school's over, and I've successfully passed summer school! (applause)

Finally, I'm done co-op. The problem now is getting a job... I've applied at 3 different places already, yet I'm still getting no answer... How is it that my schoolmate, some new import kid who just immigrated here already got a job so quickly? What's with this place? He's rude, a liar, a thief... How does he get into a company with no previous experiences whatsoever?

In my honest opinion, its bullshit.

Anyway, I've got a little rant I'd like to put up about HPI Racing. In no way is this supposed to deter anyone from buying HPI products, because they DO make a decent product (though I'd buy Traxxas before I'd even step into HPI territorry).

This is just a copypasta and small script-edit of my post from a forum that I frequent and moderate:

Q: What makes you not like HPI?

A: "HPI makes these big thundering big block trucks and make the parts out of cheesey nylon... (line taken from a member of RCU)

HPI has made a favorable truck, the Savage, which is great for bashing and all that... But most Savage owners (in my area) think they're better than everyone else JUST because they can stick a bigger engine in their truck and survive bigger impacts... When they see another company's car broken, they say "if it was an HPI, it wouldn't have broke". In my opinion, HPI will be nothing more than a company know for the Savage.

Believe me, HPI does make some great R/C cars, but the pact that owners go with, they close themselves from the rest of the world. They go on saying how HPI's R/C vehicles are durable, high-performance, blah, blah, blah...

My old boss from the computer repair shop I used to work at. I'll use him as an example.

I was driving my GT2 (Team Associated) nitro stadium truck in the back lot behind the shop when I caught interference and went WOT right into a cement wall, snapping the front sub-chassis and top-plate on my ST.

He starts saying "my touring car could've survived that. Any company's R/C car could've survived that". Touring car and ST? You're comparing open-wheel (like F1 cars) versus closed-wheel cars (GT cars with their wheels protected by the car's body).

[The company has absolutely NO racing heritage and history, whatsoever! My GT2 is a racing machine, not a bashing toy! The GT2 ALSO lives up to the RC10GT's legendary racing history! Jared Tebo fulfilled it in 2006 by winning the ROAR Gas Truck Nationals! The previous Nationals was won by Tebo himself, but with the GT2's predecessor, the GT! Look at this, predecessor and successor! One after the other! One should know that the original GT was released in 1993 and after the Gas Truck class was created in 1995, it won the first year the class was designed, and every Gas Truck National after that!]

Continuing on, he goes on saying that we should race and how he'd beat me with his powerful 4.6 Savage engine and his 'world-class' driving skill.

First off, he didn't even break in the engine properly. He goes WOT and drives it like a scolded dog the first time he started it. He can't tune, and can't turn over his engine consistently.

Then his "world-class" driving. Driving WOT, hitting the brakes, u-turn, and just as the the inside tires lift, he countersteers and brings the tires back and says "see, now that's driving"...

He goes on saying that he could even beat me on a purpose-built off-road track. Not a chance, dips#it can't even land his truck on its wheels...

Then he brings up his "impressive" painting skills. The ability to paint a 1:10 touring car body of HPI's Impreza (like the XMOD). He paints it ALL BLACK... Not even the right color, then takes the decals, sticks 'em on. Doesn't like it, peels it off and tries to stick it back on...

Then, for those who're more experienced with nitro R/C and cut holes in their windows... He sets up his race body by cutting the WHOLE windshield out and then sticking LEDs to his body...

ROAR/IFMAR regulation states that you can only have a windshield hole only as big as less than HALF of the size of the windshield...

Another thing, 9/10 HPI guys I know locally DON'T even perform regular maintenance on their car, NOR do they even install/replace their own parts.

In my boss's case, he spends $500 on the RTR, then $200 for the LHS to install parts (this case, HPI's 3-speed for the Savage), and tune the engine...

The $200 does NOT include the cost of parts... My boss went on about his stock engine not running properly (wasn't even broken-in properly in the first place) and spends $230 on an Axial .32 engine which he has the LHS break-in and tune for him...

Now, I'm NOT saying that ALL HPI guys are like this. But like I said above, 9/10 HPI guys in my area are like this."

Anyway, that's really all I can think of... I did however get back into Pixel art. I tried it at one point by making a pixel car replica of my Kenstyle G35 XMODS body, but I never really finished it... I went back a few weeks ago, this time, with an S14a Silvia that started out as a red bone-stock base. I re-painted it black, stuck on a Vertex Ridge rear bumper, intercooler, wheels, etc. I even put two pixel girls around the car resembling my girlfriend and her sister. I did do an edit with a third girl lying beside the car just to resemble my girlfriend's older sister; 'skanky whore', as my girlfriend calls her.

I won't be posting any pics through blogger lately, as I'm pretty fed up with the image posting properties that it has... It keeps changing the text I type beside the images into hyperlinks... Its annoying and its been like that since I first started blogger...

Well, at least its much cleaner and more professional looking than ModBlog.

Anyway, thanks for reading.

Until next time, chill-out and relax.

2006-11-07T16:16:00.000-05:00

Ah, its been a month since I've posted an entry. Well, for starters, no progress has been made on the models... Yes, yes, I know. I'll get some progress done throughout some of the winter (I hope).

I did get Ubuntu working quite well now, network, applications, etc. I think its running pretty stable. Only problem with my box is the BIOS. I'm still running Asus' M2N32-SLI Deluxe 0302 BIOS when 0706 has already been released. Everytime I try to update my BIOS my OS'es never boot. WinXP gets up to the bootscreen and after a few laps by the bootloader bar the BSOD flashes once and then reboots. Ubuntu can't even get past the "Mounting Files Needed to Boot" check. It just freezes after that. My BIOS is very out-of-date. There are at least three or four revisions between my 0302 and the 0706. I've posted threads in the Asus forum and the LiquidNinjas forum, but nothing seems to be helping. I might even post a thread in the AMD forums or even the nVidia forums if it ends up that way.

Well, on to other things.
Just a few weeks ago I became an owner of an Apple iPod. It is the 30GB video model. So basically, the 'normal' type of iPod compared to the Nanos and Shuffles. I think its pretty convenient having a 30GB (my actual size 27.4GB) portable hard drive to hold files, documents, music, video, some notes and calender dates, as well as photos. It works pretty well except for the part where you have to purchase a case :( On the day that I got it, I already scratched the reflective metal backplate of the iPod. I read from iLounge, an iPod owners forum, that a cleanser called 'Brasso' can clean and remove minor scratches. I'd like to be able to find that stuff here in Canada to clean the rear of my iPod.

Later this week I'll also be ordering a iPod case from the company C6 Manufacturing. As you may already know, I am an automotive enthusiast and I love carbon fiber, therefore I chose C6 for their marvelous carbon fiber iPod case. It comes with a vinyl screen protector, but I think I'll replace it later with the one which Power Support offers called the iPod Film Set.

The carbon fiber iPod case from C6 features real carbon fiber sheets that sandwich your iPod and stay together using steel screws and aluminum screw posts. There is also an optional belt clip on the back with a circle cut-out from the rear carbon fiber sheet. You can opt Jason from C6 to not do a cut-out in the rear sheet if you want, with no additional cost.

2006-10-06T21:14:00.000-04:00

Re-installed Ubuntu Linux 6.06 Dapper Drake from the CD that just came in the mail today! This time, it came from France! Last time it was Belgium, and France for the very first time!

Well anyway, I re-installed it due to the issue that under previous installs, I couldn't access the internet, or even have an internet connection. It worked the first and second time I installed Ubuntu, but not the time after that, nor this time. I tried everything from network restarts, to things as desperate as unplugging the computer for 20 minutes and trying again. Nothing worked...

Working with Ubuntu Linux isn't too complicated, its just that the simplest little thing can cause such havoc and mayhem into you. NO ONE can go about using a computer on a regular basis without a connection to the internet. The internet connection is DETECTED and WORKS while in WinXP as well as the Kubuntu LiveCD, and even my old Ubuntu 5.04 LiveCD boot. But not when its actually installed? Its pretty much a load of BS when it works, you're satisfied, and then install it to know that the stupid thing doesn't want to work, even if you try everything in your power... But unfortunately, some of those things need internet access to update repositories and download packages... How can you get the internet running, when what you need to get it running is on the internet?

I'm pretty much ticked off about how Ubuntu isn't working up to par like it did in the first install... At the time when it worked, it was far more superior than WinXP... But now, if the OS can't even connect to the internet, its inferior, just like Honda Civics... And I don't like the fact that Ubuntu is being inferior, as every l33t poweruser knows, Windows is the inferior of the group... For now, I can just wait until someone on UbuntuForums.org replies to my thread, though I hate it when my thread goes off the first page and it isn't acceptable to 'bump', or 'ttt' your thread. Hopefully all this BS gets fixed...

Another thing I'd like to say is that my G35 XMODS finally broke... No fun for me though, what the heck am I to do now? The front right (drivers POV) steering knuckle broke. I can't mount the bottom of it to the bottom suspension arm, the hole where the screw goes in is gone, it cracked. Now it is just a 'C' as opposed to the 'O' where the screw was placed... I can purchase an aluminum one, but I'm not sure where to spend my money. May be on hardware upgrades for my PC, or may be for some other stuff. Though as for now, I have a duty to save up and purchase a garage kit (two if I can) from HobbyFan and build/paint them for my two friends.

Well, that's about it for now, I'll publish another entry when I get that damn network fixed in Ubuntu and do a write-up on different ways on going about fixing it, in case any readers stumble upon that problem as well.

2006-08-17T00:23:00.000-04:00

Wow! Another update, and its in the same week! Well, regarding that 'Grand Canyon' between Belldandy's leg and the rest of her body, I sort of worked around on that using a tip I received from a member from HobbyFanatics' forum through email. The trick was to use Vaseline to coat one part so that the putty wouldn't stick to the rest of the body and that it would be removable for painting. Well, mine didn't turn out that perfect... If I get that desperate, I may just get the Excel back-saw with the finest teeth and just cut off her leg and try to reattach it at another part. But my other option would probably (and most likely) to just putty again and just use liquid masking to mask off areas that're a different color and do it that way (I don't think I need to go indepth, you could probably imagine it yourselves). If anyone has a better way, please, feel free to give me a shout. Oh, wow. I already forgot that I still need to create the 'borders' of the openings of her swimsuit on where the swimsuit ends and her bare skin begins. Well, I hope I can do something about it. But anyway, I'll let you come to conclusions on whether I succeed with this resin garage kit. Anyway, on with the photos!

Just a simple full-shot of Belldandy_

Pretty big gap still, and still need to smooth out her leg_

Here's from the rear_

I guess some call this the moneyshot_

I've removed the pins in her leg so it'd be easier to work with the putty_

And that isn't it! I also got some work done on my 1/24 Mitsubishi GTO. I was able to put some putty into the areas where I would be working on creating the widebody GT racing kit. I also removed the rear wing becaust it looked too small for the part. I hope I don't fool around with it, as I would really like to fix it up and use it on the avex DOME MUGEN NSX.

Not only have I been able to put putty on some of the areas I will be working on, I have also found the time to take out the Dremel (actually, its similar to a Dremel, but its branded by a company called Clarke) and cut the holes for my bonnet scoops. For those who don't know, the bonnet scoops are not backwards. This is the type of bonnet scoop where cold air comes in low through the holes in the front bar (bumper) and hot air comes out of the bonnet scoops on the bonnet. Its not entirely done, as I still need to fill in a few minor gaps and smooth out the surrounding area, but it totally fits the GT race look. And again, on with the photos!

Doesn't look mean unlike the S13, S14a or U12... I may make the headlights 'popped-up' or RE Amemiya FD-style_

My bonnet scoops_

Side-view_

More of a rear-view_

Side-view, nothing fancy yet_

Rear-view_

Front-view_

Ah, yes. Some progress. It feels nice to post an entry where I actually show what I get done, as opposed to rant about something without including photos. Well, what else is there to put? Ah, yes, I remember now. A few days ago I won a free Jr. Bacon Cheeseburger at Wendy's! Awesome. There's also a code on the other roll-up side for some kind of 'Kick for a Million' code online. But I can't kick a football. Probably a soccer ball, but certainly not a football. So I'll just forget about the code and focus on the cheeseburger :D

Well, talk is nothing without proof, so here are the pictures. Though you probably don't care that I won a cheeseburger... But here is a photo of the winning cup with my XMODS Evolution Infiniti G35/Nissan V35 Skyline Coupe 350GT on top of it_

And just because I had nothing to do at the time. I put my XMODS car inside my rig and took a photo. If you care to look, here it is_

Oh, yeah. And just because my rig looks a bit messy inside, from afar, it looks more l33t that yours. Just because you have one LED fan it doesn't make your rig l33t, because I'm sleeving, getting UV LED device cables and going liquid cooled next! But before then (may be a year? :D) here is a photo of my rig. You can see the XMODS car, the Mitsubishi GTO and Belldandy in the photo too_

And to end this entry, here is a photo of my XMODS Evolution car with the 5Zigen FN01R-C drift kit wheels_

The End :)

2006-08-13T18:31:00.000-04:00

I finally got a bit of work done on my models! Ah, yes, some progress. Not much, but it is still quite considerable and worth mentioning. First I'll outline that I've gotten some work done on Belldandy. But fell short on just finding out what needs to be done after. I'll get into more detail below. I've also purchased some Milliput. I tested a bit out on my 1/24 Tamiya Mitsubishi GTO LM racing project. I only used a bit, just to get a feel for Milliput. As stated in many forums, it is advisable to keep your fingers moist with water to make nice smooth finishes. After I let that sit overnight, I started sanding a little bit to see how it responds as compared to Tamiya Basic putty. It sands very well and is easier to handle initially compared to Tamiya Basic. Below are some photos of the beginning of the forming of the wide-body design on my GTO. Please note, that this is only the beginning. It looks a bit course, but its only the base of where the rest of the putty will go on later.

I have also done a small amount of work with the Milliput on my 1/6 Belldandy with Swimsuit Sitting model. I've successfully mounted her left leg in place. What I need to do after is clean up the putty by sanding it down, and add a bit of putty in the area between her leg and her hip. I'm not entirely sure what that part of the body is called, so someone hit me with the correct term. It is not the part that connects to her side, its the part between the inside of her leg. The photo is attached below this paragraph.

Note: I won a Jr. Bacon Cheeseburger from that roll-up thing on the Wendy's cup_

After I had successfully attached her left leg, I ran into a few problems whilst test-fitting other parts. There is a large awkward area of material from her under-arm that isn't meeting correctly with the area on her body that its supposed to mount with. This is the same for both arms. I'll post a few photos to show the front and rear problems I'll be facing on her arms. There photos are included below this block of text.

Front Left Shoulder Area_

Rear Left Shoulder Area_

Front Right Shoulder Area_

Rear Right Shoulder Area_

As you can see. I've got a tricky area of work ready for my to tackle. With the sand paper ribbons I have. I am not entirely sure they're enough to finish this obstacle. So I will go to the hobby shop and purchase more sanding ribbons to replace the old ones on my Excel sanding sticks. I myself am not even sure what these sanding sticks are called, I didn't even bother examining the packaging that much. But here is a photo of what they look like.

I'd recommend these sanding sticks with replaceable sandpaper ribbons to any hobbyist because they make it easier to sand without putting any strain on just trying to hold the usual sandpaper or eraser 'sandpaper block'.

But even with all these obstacles on Belldandy, I have found one that has annoyed me the most. And no, its not that little piece of hair at the end of her ponytail. Its her right leg. One question, have you seen the Grand Canyon? Well if you haven't, heres some photos of the Grand Canyon below.

I could probably stick a pad of 10 sheets of printer paper through that_

Even that far away you can still see it_

Same as above but a little closer_

Its gonna take a lot of work and a lot of putty_

Wow, so any readers not familiar with the Grand Canyon, you just saw it ;)

Well, does anyone remember my 1/24 avex DOME MUGEN NSX? Remember how I bought another one to compensate for the complete and utter loss of the first one? Well, I did it again... I used its wing on my XMODS G35 (V35 - 350GT Skyline Coupe). Well, I think I may have a solution to how I can get it back. I can try to salvage it off the Mitsubishi GTO and just use Evergreen polystyrene sheets and make my own for the GTO. The problem is, even if both models are built perfectly, none of them will have windshields, side windows, and rear windows. And when I am able to get them, I'll most likely end up ruining them because Tamiya masking tape hates me and doesn't want to mask properly without bleeding... That's why I'm going to resort to liquid masking, or latex masking solution as some call it. But that is at another time, when I'm actually able to get a full clear parts set for each car.

Anyways, apart from all the scale modeling, my rig seems to look fancier than ever. Some photos have been uploaded to myrigshowcase and are ready to be shown. The only update I've done to the rig is install 2 cold-cathode light tubes. Unfortunately, they didn't have blue, so I had to settle for a green. Now my blue LED side fan and LED UV rear exhaust fan are fighting a battle for blueness or greenyness. Apparently, green is winning :D But hopefully, I'll find blue cold-cathode tubes and use them to combat the green! Photos following this paragraph.

See how much bright the green is compared to the blue_

Well, atleast you can see more blue now_

Cold-Cathode tubes off_

Cold-Cathode tubes on_

The blue is getting pwnzd by the green_

Well, thats it with the happy stuff. On to the sad stuff. August 13 2006, I've suffered a loss of something near and dear to me. Something that means a lot. My 1991 Nissan Stanza XE had been sold... Fine, its not as fancy as an S13 Silvia, or a 300ZX, 240ZG, or 350Z. But it was a damn awesome car. It never ceases to amaze me, as even in the car's quite poor condition, it can still run. Even if it doesn't run as good as it did in 1991. It is still an amazing car. Too bad the previous owner before me, somebody by the name Edward Douglas Evans didn't even give respect to the car. I am the second owner of the car. I got it with rust holes under the mudflaps, rust around the driverside rear door handles and a few other places. It may have been a teenaged joyrider who was the owner. But he doesn't know what this car is capable of, and what it is. It is the U12 Bluebird. In Japan where the original one was released, it was the first car to EVER house the SR20DET engine under its bonnet. So all the 180SX, and Silvia guys out there, know, that this is where that engine they have came from.

You can view some photos of my Nissan Stanza XE on my CarDomain page here.

2006-07-28T04:24:00.000-04:00

Well, well, well... Sorry folks, I had a larger entry in mind about my new XMODS Evolution car, et. But POS Microsoft killed it... You can blame it all on them. I had about five paragraphs, but then XP decided to turn the screen all black. I used CTRL+ALT+DEL but when I tried to end the process of the offending program, well, you know how it goes... Microsoft has piece of sh!t program management. You tell it to close, but it will close when it feels like... You open a new internet browser window to surf while another one is loading, but then, it finishes loading... During while you're doing something important on the other browser. It just takes over and goes over your other browser. That's why I hate Microsoft to pieces. They make you pay for their lousy products... I'm running a 2.43GHz rig right now (yes, its running 57C on idle, but it can manage... Sort of) and the computer is as slow as a Vespa trying to drag race with an R32 GTR... It just doesn't happen. It takes ages to shut down, and ages to start up. That's why Linux is a far more superior operating system than Microsoft Windows. You tell something to close, it will close, and it DOES close. Microsoft? Forget about it. And besides, Linux is free.

Why do I even bother with Microsoft? Overclocking, that's why. And also to play games. Because I like doing that. Anyway, like I said earlier, I'm running at 2.43GHz on stock HSF (heatsink fan) cooling. And its damned hot. That's what I'm opting to go into the realm of liquid cooling. Specifically with Danger Den's NVIDIA kit. The problem is, that kit is lacking something. What its lacking is a GPU waterblock. That's why I've created an account on LiquidNinjas to ask the members to recommend me a good waterblock for my 7300 GS. Yes, you read that correctly, a 7300 GS. Some members from other forums have told me just to scrap it and save up for a more powerful card. *cough* XFX 7950 GX2 *cough* But I've already been able to overclock the GPU core and GPU memory by up to 20MHz. Its not much, but any performance gain is a good thing. Anyway, I've thought of liquid cooling for a while now (actually, before this PC was even built). But now I actually have a reason to do it.

Well, I'll just sign off now. Its 4:35AM and I haven't slept yet. And hopefully, Microsoft doesn't crash again... May be I will talk about the things that were lost before the crash at another time. Until then, please check back.

2006-06-21T12:25:00.000-04:00

Well hello again! Today I'm writing about PC Village. PC Village is a computer shop for computer enthusiasts. They currently have six branches and one head office, if you can count, that's seven in all. I've visited the PC Village branch over in Scarborough once, may be three times. I must say, they have quite a bit of products there. Not like TigerDirect (in Markham), where they mostly have products from ULTRA, or some other cheap feeling products. In PC Village at Scarborough, they sell quality products. Unfortunately, their customer service sort of stinks. I ordered the Asus A8N32-SLI Deluxe motherboard. They said that it would be stocked in about one week. I took their word of deposited $50. After about two weeks, I started to worry. They didn't even bother calling me where it may be delayed or not. During week three, I just said, "forget it". It wasn't worth my time. I promptly took back my $50 deposit. About two weeks from then, I received a call saying that they had it in stock... Well too late. The clerk at the Scarborough tries to belittle you. He makes it sound as if you don't know anything. If only he knew that I knew exactly everything he was talking about. They should treat the customer respectfully, not treat them as if they are of a lower class and don't know what they're talking about. This took place at around New Years.

Going back to present, I gave a call to Bernie from the PC Village branch in Markham. Bernie was very nice and helpful. I have ordered the Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition motherboard and an AMD Sempron64 3600+ Manila core AM2 processor from him. He told me that he had the motherboard in stock and the processor would be in on Thursday. He was kind enough to place the motherboard on hold until I came buy to pay for it and pick it up. I received an email on Wednesday and Bernie told me that the processor was already in stock! I really liked his service. I promptly came by to the store on Saturday to pay for the hardware. Bernie also asked me if I wanted to join a raffle going on for a new LCD monitor. I probably didn't win, but that's okay. Bernie was very helpful. I emailed him just recently regarding Coolermaster's Aerogate II fan controller and temp reader panel for my PC. He told me that it isn't in stock but that he would order it. He estimates that it will be in on Tuesday. That's amazing service. He ordered it without me even having to ask! I will hopefully purchase it next Saturday, or whenever I have free time that week after Tuesday. Bernie is a very good man, and I hope other customer service reps and clerks follow along just like him.

2006-06-20T15:58:00.000-04:00

Another update! I just recently started test fitting the Mitsubishi GTO body onto its chassis. For sure, now it needs a bit of modification to fit properly and securely. I've taken a couple of pictures from the webcam. Yes, yes, I know. It's pretty low quality, but then again, its a webcam shaped of a baseball, so of course it's not going to be of reasonable or astounding quality. I hope you can make out the general look of the model through the pictures, though.

Here you can see the general view of the GTO model. You can see that the windsplitter (or front-spoiler, as it is commonly know as, is tilted upwards. You don't see that on real cars... Except may be on Civic or Integra ricers trying to fly. But this just won't do for a high-performance car. I will need to shave off the side splitters and use whatever's left to make some kind of body kit and then use a carbon fiber sheet to re-create an aftermarket add-on windsplitter_

Next, we have a picture of the car from the rear (click on the photo to enlarge for a better view). Here you can see the stock exhaust system on the car. I am planning to keep the rear bumper as stock looking as possible. Here you can also see my diffuser (the clear object under the car). I'll be painting it a mock carbon fiber to stimulate RE Amemiya diffusers on RX-7_

Here we have a styleshot. Just me fooling around with the camera. You can sort of see how much ride height this car is achieving. Since it'll be this high (I'm not into modifying the suspension for it to sit any lower), I'll be adding more putty (once I get some Milliput) to make a lower sitting front body kit. I will also use styrene sheets to aid in creating skirts on the side of the car_

And finally, we have a profile shot. Here you can get a pretty good idea of what I meant earlier about the windsplitter in the front. You can see as the vertical cannards tilt upwards like its trying to get airborne. I'll need to trim them off and make a better and smoother looking bodykit. As well, I'll need to create a skirt on both sides of the car to compensate for the ride height and make it look like it has a lower centre of gravity (note, don't be a ricer and do that in real life, don't just cut your springs, either. Lowering your car will also mean that you need to change your shocks (or dampers) so that your suspension isn't so soft that your car's chassis is rubbing the ground when you turn, or that you don't rub the chassis on speed bumps). In the picture you can also see how aerodynamic looking the car is. Not that it is, at the moment, since the rear wing is tilted at such an extreme angle, and tha the front spoiler is tilted up. Not a good setup to acheive any performance or handling gains_

As you can see in the first, third, and fourth pictures. My side-view mirrors aren't on the doors where they were meant to be, or in-between the A-pillar and door, like on some cars. This was merely added for style, and because many older cars, specifically the early Fairlady Z's had their side-view mirrors on the front quarter panels. But my original inspiration of putting them there came from a poster in my room with the RE Amemiya GReddy FD3S drift car. I've included a picture of the car below.

2006-06-17T21:56:00.000-04:00

Hello folks! It's me again. Yes, yes, I rarely update, but that's because I'm quite the busy man (o_0 busy with what?).

Well, next week, starting Monday, is exams. Today is Saturday. I've decided that Sunday would be my review and study day. On Monday I have my exam in Science, Tuesday in Computer Sciences (hope not to fail), Wednesday in Civics, and finally Thursday in Communications Tech. It's going to be so horribe this semester as opposed to last semester... I was deceived that Computer Sciences would be about hardware, etc. But nooo, it has to be about programming... I never wanted to have anything to do with programming. I wanted hardware technologies, but programming?! I'm not even sure I'll take this class again next year. I think I'll just stick with communications tech instead, I'm getting about 65% in computer sciences, a course I didn't even choose... Well, techinically I did, but I was deceived. I feel like crap because of it too...

Well, that is enough boring stuff about how I hope I'll barely pass the exams... But on to the interesting and gut wrenching talk about how 31337 my AM2-based rig is being built up! Here are some specs_

- Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wi-Fi Edition motherboard
- AMD Socket AM2 Sempron64 3600+
- XFX nVidia GeForce 7300 GS graphics card
- Sony DVD/CD ReWritable DRU-810A optical drive
- Sony Generic 3.5 inch Floppy drive
- Seagate Baracuda 80GB hard disk drive
- Ultra V-Series 500W PSU
- Power Up! Premium Black "2531" mid-tower

Yep, pretty decent. Sure it's got a $50 case and a $50 PSU, but that can be replaced if need-be in the future. It's holding up pretty good, though. Though I'd like to put rubber case feet because the plastic ones don't feel very safe to me.

What's very good about this setup is that it utilizes AMD's latest AM2 socket. With a processor upgrade and a graphics card update, it could seriously contend with Intel's up-and-coming Conroe line of processors. I don't intend on making this a ricer computer by adding LED rubber case feet though (which is basically equivalent to putting Altezza tail lights on a piece of junk Civic or Integra... Don't they know that they're called Altezza tail lights for a reason? They're used on the Toyota Altezza (Lexus IS300)).

Well, if you'd like some photos that I took. Sorry in advance for the lousy resolution, what else could you expect from a $1.99 webcamera? Visit my RigShowcase album to view my images. Remember, latest images are at the bottom.

2006-06-09T16:12:00.000-04:00

Well I've finally gotten some work done on Belldandy. For sure I'm not 1/2 way though with her yet, but when I am done, I hope it will be spectacular! I've started pinning some of the major components such as her arms and legs, and even her ponytail. I've puttied up most of the side of her body where you can see her skin behind her swimsuit. But now, her arms don't fit as well, so there is still much work to go. There's also quite a bit of work to be done on her hair (all pieces), arms and legs. But truly, not a bad start for a beginner figure modeler. I have included some photos below.

At the time this photo was taken, there weren't any pinholes drilled into her legs yet. Currently, there are, but is unshown_

I will also be having to paint her eyes. I took a few close ups for reference, since when it is time to paint them, they'll be covered over with prime, flesh, and white.

Closeup of Belldandy's eyes_

There are also some parts of Belldandy that had annoyed me. The part which most annoyed me was the tip of her ponytail. Even when I glue it with Tamiya cement, if it even taps another object, it breaks off again. I'm thinking of probably pinning it and using some good 'ole Krazy glue to attatch it. I've still yet bought milliput, which I need to patch up and recreate many parts for Belldandy, such as hair, legs and parts near her 'areas' arms, and her jewelry (earings, wrist band and ankleband).

Tip of her ponytail is temporarily attached_

I've also had some progress with the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. I've got most of the front bar managed. I just need to re-inforce it some more and clean up the intake vents. I also have plans for installing a diffuser in the rear of the car. I got my inspiration on it not jst from the part that came with the avex DOME MUGEN NSX, but from a few photos of some members rides from RX-7 Owners Club. There are quite a handful of members with recreated RE Amemiya FD3S diffusers. There are even a few on the FC!

Mitsubishi GTO's front bar_

After that, I started playing around with the camera and found out that I really can't cope very well with an auto-focus camera. I got quite frustrated a number of times. I guess its time for an SLR camera! If you look at the photo of my 1/43 Ebbro Raybrig NSX 2003 below, you can see that there are many blurry parts on it.

1/43 Ebbro Raybrig NSX 2003_

After playing around some more with the camera, I tried to take the neatest photos of my Lacus and Cagalli PVC figures. They turned out quite well, not as perfect as I would have hoped, but not bad for an auto-focus digital camera. Though it did make Lacus' skin look quite yellow...

Cagalli_

Lacus_

2006-05-30T17:29:00.000-04:00

I've finally got a chance to build and paint a resin garage kit! I will start off my adventure with this 1/6 scale resin garage kit of Ah! Megami-sama's Belldandy wearing a swimsuit while sitting. This will be my very first resin garage kit and I hope it will be a good one! Sorry in advance for some of the blurry pictures. Please click the pictures to enlage them.

Here is a photo of the box and wrapping that it came in_

Here is the wrapping going under the knife. Anticipating the kit as I open the box_

Wow, great packaging, she sure looks nice and safe_

Upon opening, I am greeted with a beautiful aray of resin body parts :) (sorry for the blurry picture)_

Taking a closer look, Belldandy already has a template for her eyes drawn in_

Even closer, you can see Ryu (Ryujin or Ryu-NS) engraved into her main body_

Now my rough testfit with most of Belldandy's parts taped on using Tamiya masking_

Its pretty awesome how some sculptors are so talented. Now, its my job, as the end user of this model to build and paint her. Upon test-fitting, I've found that some, okay, most of the parts don't fit all that well. Some parts like the sides of her breasts need a lot of sanding, gap filling and re-molding since it doesn't fit all to perfectly. After I did that, her shoulders and part of her underarm fit worse than they did from the start. So now, I need to take off some parts, and re mold some areas as well as fill some gaps.

When test-fitting her legs, they didn't seem to line up very well, or very flush, for that matter, so some pinning and some large quantities of putty would be needed. But that is for another time, since I'm almost out of putty. Her right bang (right from Belldandy's perspective) don't line up very well, and is actually quite off now in relation to her right arm. Her ponytail knot and her ponytail are actually the only parts that fit perfectly, a little bit of gap filling to the back of her head and they'll be on perfectly. Just a bit of gap filling from some holes on her hair from molding to be done and reformation of the tip of her ponytail.

Belldandy is also missing a few parts. She's missing the part that comes out as strings of hair coming and sticking out of her bangs. I can probably make those somehow, but I'm not there yet. But this project won't be finished anytime soon. I've still got a date with a little friend I like to call Mitsi, the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo that I'm building. I'm sure painting Belldandy's eyes will probably be the most trouble for me, my hand isn't steady, but I can also practice on flat cardboard or something to get a feel on how to paint them.

At the moment, this is how far I am with Belldandy_

Not bad, not bad. Pretty cool to see her coming together. I'd like to give my most sincere thanks to Glunky from HF for giving me this great opportunity!

If you would like to see my current progress with the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, please visit this website to see its current state. Click here to view the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo.

2006-05-14T19:57:00.000-04:00

Cars. Yes, cars. I haven't made a post about cars yet. No, not radio control or model cars, REAL cars! No, not some enviromentalist hippie smart car, a sports car. Yes, a sports car. Not a mid-engined rear drive car, that's a full blown race car (I just don't see why Honda made the NSX so under-powered, as well as Toyota with their four-banging MR2 and MRS. Do you also remember the Lotus Elise? It looks like a very beautiful car, but its using the same 190HP engine in it as used in the previously said MR2 and MRS. And why did Lotus even come out with a budget version of their amazing Esprit as an inline-four? Luckily they came out with a twin-turbocharged V8). Sports car enthusiasts know what I'm talking about, a front-engined rear wheel drive vehicle. Not some ricer Honda Civic, a real car. Like the Nissan S-series (Silvia), or the legendary Z-cars (Fairlady Z). How about the Ẽfini (pronounced 'Anfini') Mazda RX-7 FC3S (Savanna) and the FD3S?

They are all amazing machines. They're wonderful, capable, and all have unlimited potential. For example, the Nissan 180SX shares the SR20DET engine with the other Silvia cars. There's also an FD that has an SR20DET in it. Wow, two different brands, one pistoned, the other rotary, and was scraped for the piston. It truly is an amazing engine that Nissan has crafted. Lets not forget about the Fairlady Z, they are the epitome of Nissan/Datsun's sports cars. Starting out in 1969 with Datsun's 240Z, going on to make the 260Z, 280Z and then the 280ZX. There was also the 240ZG special production run which came out in 1971. Which is notable for having an aerodynamic lens put atop the front light buckets. Then after a few years hiatus, the Nissan 300ZX is released. It has much different body compared to the Datsun Fairlady Z's, but its still marked with the legendary Z badges. After the first generation of 300ZXes, the second generation 300ZX is released, being sold between 1990 and 1996. This second generation 300ZX, or 4th generation Fairlady Z, had much different stylings from its previous generation counterpart. The 4th generation Fairlady Z loses the semi pop-up lights as the previous generation and is replaced with a flush body mounted bucket, this time with projectors on the ends as opposed to full halogen bulbs. Then the 5th generation Fairlady Z rolls in, the 350Z. This one, with a larger displacement engine than the previous models. This one retains the static headlights, but offers a more 'flowing' headlight design than the 300ZX. The 350Z is more curvier than the 300ZX. It is offered in hard-top and soft-top trims like the 300ZX, but also has the factory option for some beautifully forged RAYS Engineering wheels.

The Nissan Silvia series of cars is also very popular. Among drifting circuits, it is legendary. A 1990 S13 Silvia can still be found hanging around, and sometimes, out-gunning some Skylines on drift circuits. The RPS13 model of Silvias are very popular. Released as the 180SX in Japan, 240SX in North America, and 200SX in Australia (and probably some parts of Europe, not 100% sure though). All have the same body stylings, while the 180SX receives an upgrade in exterior styling later on. The North American model comes with a KA24E (sub-1990) and the KA24DE (1990-on). The 1991 model and after have limited slip differentials. The Japanese 180SX doesn't have a 1.8L engine, as its name implies, though early models had a CA18DET which was a 1.8L inline-4. The 180SXes are very popular because they contain Nissan's legendary SR20DET engine. The same one used on the S14 and S15 after it. This 180SX is the most powerful of the North American and Australian models. The Australian model was called the 200SX. Which is more correct, because it had a 2.0L inline-4. Some models contained only a capable SR20DE. Which isn't bad, but if you were a lucky Australian and got to pick your trim when you first bought it, you would've been lucky with the SR20DET as one of your performance options.

The RPS13 body has pop-up headlights up front and a stylish wraping tail light in the rear. Its very popular with North American enthusiast since they're the same vehicle as the 180SX, only difference is badges and engine. Some enthusiasts like to convert their plan looking RPS13 into a SilEighty. A front-end conversion by using the front bar, fenders, headlights, grill and hood of the S13 Silvia. Its usually for style points, but its more aerodynamic than having the headlights pop-up creating air drag. While there are some who've put S14 front ends on their RPS13s, there are a few enthusiasts putting on S15 Silvia front ends onto their RPS13. Its more aerodynamic than the S13 front, but some say it looks more agressive than the rest of the car's styling. This is called the Strawberry Face conversion. The number 'one' is Ichi in Japanese and 'five' is Go. S15 = IchiGo. Ichigo translates to Strawberry, this earning the name, the Strawberry Face. Below is a simple collage with the popular Silvia front ends on the RPS13 chassis. Click on the image to enlarge.

Body styling (A) is the standard RPS13 styling. (B) is the SilEighty styling and (C) is the Strawberry Face styling. In my opinion, they all look beautiful.

Below are the Nissan Silvia seres cars from the S13 and up. (D) is the S13, (E) is the S14, (F) is the S14a, hence the new headlight styling, and (G) is the S15.

Below are the legendary Fairlady Z (Z-cars). They are numbered by generations.

2006-05-10T22:17:00.000-04:00

Well, I took my Protoform Speed12B body down from the shelf to take a look at it, and noticed that I haven't taken any pics of it yet. So out with the webcam, which its quality is anything less than craptacular. So bear with me. I also took a pic of it with my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush on it to give it a size comparison. The Eclipse CS is a popular enough airbrush that most hobbyists would most likely know its size in relativity to the 1/12 pancar body. So on with the pics!

First off is the picture with the Eclipse CS on it to give you a size comparison of how small the Speed12B body actually is.

Here's a good thing about Proline's Protoform bodies. They include overspray film to prevent your airbrush's or spray can's overspray from touching the outter portion of the body. After you're done painting, you simply remove the protective film and, voila! Nice shiny body. Just for those who've not have any past experience painting clear lexan bodies for hobby-grade radio controlled models; painting is done on the inside of the body. Therefore, darker colors before lighter colors, as opposed to standard painting. This is because the body will get hit in a crash or if your model flips, or glitches. Its good to know, since your priceless masterpiece will be spared as opposed to being scratched and chipped off.

And here is the general 3/4 view of Proline's Protoform 1/12 Speed12B body. It really looks great, its very aerodynamic and produces just less downforce than the original Speed12 body, but if rear downforce is still necessary for your specific track, it includes two add-on 'gurney' flaps to add to rear downforce.

2006-05-09T13:57:00.000-04:00

Well, I took some semi-high-res pics of my models and the shelf they're on, as well as some low quality shots of the new rig I'm building. Just last week the rig got a new combination optical drive. If you want to see more pics of the Über l33t rig's progress, please follow this link!

It's pretty good for $65. It also came with a black bezel. The black one doesn't as look as neat as the white one, but it fits the theme.

I am now also learning to play JerryC's Canon Rock with the aid of Guitar Pro 5. It is a pretty neat program, it gives you the score, as well as the tabs. You can even put on an option where you can see a fretboard showing where your fingers are supposed to be.

Next I will be showing some pics of my models. Here is the Cagalli figure I received from my greatest friends; Frankie and Mariah. They're such amazing friends, I can't thank them enough. I purchased the Lacus model along with the issue of Hobby Magazine at a hobby shop.

Here is a portion of my shelf where I've put most of my models.

And here is my FIX0006 Wing Gundam

It is a bit blurry, but here is a photo of the oh-so-popular Tamiya Hornet radio controlled model. True story; I bought this for $50 at a Niagara hobby shop and built the model an hour after I got home!

Here is a photo of my Squier Strat and my Fender amp

Following are just pics of figures and resin kit models I would like to own!

Rangiku Matsumoto from the anime 'Bleach'

Asaba Ureshiko from the anime '???'

Igunis from the anime 'Jingai Makyo/Chaos Gate'.

I'd also love some resin kits of Gundam Seed/Destiny's Cagalli Yula Athha, Lunamaria Hawke, Stellar Loussier, and Lacus Clyne (preferable this one: Lacus Clyne Pink Dress C3 2004). I can't get any pics of them because HobbyFan has them all watermarked and it wouldn't look professional putting them up! ^^

2006-04-30T17:53:00.000-04:00

Well, I just watched a trailer of the Fast and the Furious 3: Tokyo Drift, and from all I can tell, for one, it'll have more action in it than the previous F&F movies. But what really bothers me is that the drifting they're gonna portray in that movie is Honda Civic-ricer-wannabe drifting. Real drifting is done on a closed circuit or on a mountain pass. Not to be mistaken with touge racing. I believe that after everyone's watched that movie when it comes out, everyone's going to believe they know EVERYTHING about drifting, including the Civic ricers. Drifting isn't about driving around the streets and swinging your vehicle's tail end around, its more of an art than what that movie is going to portray. The announcer in the trailer even said that it's the latest underground trend to come from Japan. Sure, it came from Japan, but it's not the latest underground trend. If you look back to the TRUE history of drifting, you'd know that drifting originated way back in the '70s or may be later, when a Japanese racer named Kunimitsu Takahashi started doing controlled slides on a grand touring circuit.

"Drifting started out as a racing technique popular in the All Japan Touring Car Championship races over 30 years ago. A legendary driver named Kunimitsu Takahashi was the foremost practitioner of drifting techniques in the 1970's. Takahashi's aggressive drifting skills — he was famous for hitting the apex (the point where the car is closest to the inside of a turn) at high speed and then drifting through the corner, preserving a high rate of speed — earned him several championships and a legion of fans who enjoyed the spectacle of burning tires and perilous speed." (by Todd Cabell from the Crutchfield Advisor)

That's the true origin of drifting. Then Keiichi Tsuchiya came along and started to perfect it.

"A street racer named Keiichi Tsuchiya became particularly enthralled by Takahashi's drift techniques. Tsuchiya began practicing his drifting skills on the streets, and quickly gained a reputation amongst the "hashiriya" or racing crowd. In 1977, several popular car magazines and tuning garages conspired to produce a video of Tsuchiya's drifting skills on windy mountain roads. The video, called Pluspy, became a cult hit and inspired many of the professional drifting drivers on the circuits today. Tsuchiya earned himself the nickname "Dorikin," which means Drift King in Japanese." (also by Todd Cabell)

Drifting then became an essential technique to use in Touge racing when an opponent is threatening to take position ahead of his opponent. (In touge racing, when an opponents vehicle overtakes the lead car, the overtaker automatically wins that round.) Drifting can be easily utilized to 'block' a vehicle behind you and prevent them from overtaking you, which could mean an automatic win. Touge is also not about having a high horsepower vehicle like a Nissan Skyline. Touge circuits are downhill and uphill. Usually a lighter and more nimble vehicle is prefered. Touge circuits are usually not very wide, they're usually narrow where in some cases there isn't even enough ground for two vehicles to be driving side-by-side. And usually, touge is never driven with two vehicles side-by-side. At the start and finish points, its usually one car that leads and another follows. Their positions change after the first round, in which they switch position and go the other way around on the track (uphill then downhill, or downhill then uphill).

Though in touge racing, FF, FR, MR and 4WD vehicles are eligible, usually FR cars are favored due to their superior handling characteristics. As well, in drifting, there won't be any 4WDs or FF cars. In F&F3:TD I see a Lan Evo driving around. Sure, it may look like drifting, but if you're in a Lan Evo, or any other 4WD or FF vehicle that looks like its drifting, its not, the driver is usually side-braking or has toe-out set on the rear axles enough to easily lose control. Drifting isn't about going sideways, drifting is about smoothly transitioning sideways in a smooth manner, not like that crap that's going to be shown on the Fast and the Furious 3: Tokyo Drift.

Another thing, if a car needs a nitrous system, then it isn't really a car. It can't produce enough power that it needs and it runs the engine on a lean setting, which translates to engine wear. Besides, real cars are modified, have turbochargers or superchargers, not some ugly nitrous bottle in the trunk. If a driver can't afford to install a turbocharger and intercooler system in his/her car, and just goes for a bottle of NOS, that person really isn't being good to their car, running it so rich that it gets more air than fuel, meaning less lubrication on the piston and sleeves, translating to a faster engine breakdown, meaning much hotter engine. So be man and toss the bottle away. You're only as big as the reliable and constant WHP you're giving, as opposed to just simply boosting WHP by a stupid button.

The official Yokohama Tire D1 media packet defines drifting as follows:

"Drifting pros finesse their cars into spectacular powerslides around a series of corners of a set course as powerful engines roar and the tires bellow smoke. The driver controls engine power, shifts gears, and feathers the brake pedal, while at the same time spinning the steering wheel in a precise fashion from left to right, linking corners with pinpoint accuracy. The driver is controlling and maneuvering the car beyond the limits of the tires' traction."

But drifting in its most purest form is found in the offroad World Rally Championships.

2006-04-28T11:30:00.000-04:00

Hello everyone. Sorry I haven't updated in quite a bit, I've been busy with a few other things right now. I've got a few progress shots of the GTO Twin Turbo. What I did was place the spoiler mount on and put the old avex DOME MUGEN NSX wing in place. I've airbrushed silver on the body. I did the mod after it was backed with silver so I need to do another coat of silver, but that's okay.

As well, I've also taken one progress shot of EVA-02 just so you can see where I am at the moment. I'm also including some pics of my Lacus and Cagalli models, Cagalli model courtesy of my best friends Frankie and Mariah.

If you would like to view the WIP (work-in-progress) images of the Mitsubishi Twin Turbo, please visit this website.

As well, if you would also like to view the WIP images for my PC build, please visit this website.

I am also planning in the future to do an airbrush design on my guitar. I'm thinking of doing the butterfly design found on Ignis/Igunis/Igunisu's dress from Chaos Gate (Jingai Makyo). Here are a couple of pics that I took of my guitar with a print-out taped onto the body.

Just for the record, I'll also include a photo of my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush so you can get a better view of the tools that I use.

2006-04-13T17:35:00.000-04:00

Okay, models are still untouched, though the Mitsubishi GTO body is coated twice with Gloss Aluminum... Problem is that the paint keeps stippling and you can see paint-spits on the body... I hope to wet sand again and put a few more coats of gloss aluminum until I it is clean and smooth enough to lay down some clear blue for that metallic Fiji Blue color that I want. What I did do is purchase a guitar. One of those Fender Strats. Its not a bad guitar, it just never stays in tune, but otherwise, it is a start. At least it'll keep me from air-guitaring and having someone walk in on me while I do it (ahehe, yeah...). So now I'm attempting to learn JerryC's Canon Rock with the help of his GuitarPro tabs. The problem is that I need another Mp3 player so I can put the WMA file of the backing track for Canon Rock... My 64MB Mp3 player doesn't have the best sound quality and can't play WMAs or anything over 128mb/s bitrate. It is a miracle how it can hold just over 12, sometimes 14 tracks!

2006-03-17T22:02:00.000-05:00

Well, just a day before I went out to get the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS, I was refered to an art store called "Curry's" by a member of the Hobby Fanatics forum. To my surprise they had the SBS there at a much lower price ($160 as opposed to $225 at Advance Hobbies). When I went to the store closest to me, I was amazed that Curry's isn't just a regular artists' materials shop like Lewiscraft or Michaels. Curry's Artists' Materials was a hardcore artist shop. To my luck, all of their airbrushes had been put on sale. All of Iwata's Eclipse line had been reduced from the store's original $280 (wow, more than Advance's) to $160. I looked around at all the Iwata Eclipses they had in stock and to my amazement, they had the Eclipse HP-CS, its one of the airbrushes I have read about and found great comments on, from reading posts in e2046. I thought, hey, what the heck, its better than the SBS, since it's a gravity fed, and it's paint cup reservoir holds a much more gracious amount of paint than the SBS. So I came home with the Eclipse CS and an Iwata Straight Shot 10' airhose. I've tried it on my Tamiya 1:32 Mini 4WD cars just to lay down a few coats and "test drive" the airbrush. Wow, it felt amazing compared to that $8 one I bought from Princess Auto.

Yes, yes. Now that I have an airbrush I will "try" to work on my unfinished models and have the ready for the 2nd Toronto Model Contest, which, as I've heard from Kelvin and James, that it is being planned on for November of this year. All I need now to complete my auto models are new clear parts for the windsheilds, side windows and rear window. Aswell, I need some thick masking tape, since I'm not in a mood to pay $9 for a sheet of Tamiya's model-specific window masking. But I do have to purchase a new wet-decal sheet for the GTO. I already have two sheets for the NSX ;) since I screwed up the previous one. Let's hope I can try to spend my money wisely and try to get something in the static model category complete. That's it for now.

2006-02-21T23:14:00.000-05:00

Well, this weekend I expect to get the Iwata HP-SBS airbrush. When I do get it I'll do a rundown on it. But I don't expect to be able to test it out this week since my local hobby shop may not be getting Iwata-specific airhoses until next week. I could go out and buy the adaptor for my Badger-type airhose, but its cheap, its about a metre long and is coiled. I'd prefer something namebranded anyway. With this airbrush I am planning on trying to complete some models before November, which is the expected date for the 2nd Toronto Model Contest. But to finish the models I currently have, I need to purchase spare clear sprues from Borgfeldt since I screwed up on the 3000GT and the avex DOME Mugen NSX since the Tamiya masking tape sucks cr@p. I plan on using latex masking (liquid masking) instead. It may be more time consuming, but atleast I wont have broken up pieces of plasting flying across the room and into my trash bin when the paint starts bleeding through the lousy Tamiya masking... Two cars already RUINED because the Tamiya masking tape was so lousy that it can't even do its own job of masking surfaces. I even have the EVA-02 model to do, wow... I need to schedule, since I think I am falling behind in some courses. Business before pleasure. I shall up my marks before I start anything big.

2006-02-01T23:08:00.000-05:00

Well, I've been thinking whether to start building the computer that I've been waiting 'paitiently' to build, but alas, I've found something else for the time being. I was browsing through the Used Goodies section of Advance Hobby's site and I found a used Kyosho V-One RR Evolution running for $200. All it needs is an engine and the standard electronics needed for a nitro vehicle. Pretty sweet deal. I think this is the model that has the front one-way diff and the rear gear diff. Which is great, since I hate maintainance and ball diffs are a lot of hassle. What I like is that this isn't some toy-type Tamiya R/C model, this is a high-end performance machine. I'm planning on getting it next week if my dad can come up with an extra $100 to buy my Rock Buster (yuck) off me. I thought that a used product would be sold for exact pricing, but the hobbyshop said something about the taxes being on top of the cost... What's with that? I swear it's used and now the stupid government has no control of it anymore... Wow... An extra $28 or so dollars, probably going to be a week late, but I hope we can work it out, or atleast have my dad cover the tax for me (yeah, right)

I've also been thinking about what I'm gonna do with the Hornet. The left wing mount (left, as in the driver's point of view) is totally ruined, the wing just flaps around if I'm going fast enough for the wind's resistance to play a role... I've still have not sent in the Peak Jaguar 23x2 motor for repair yet, but as is, I'm very disappointed, I think I'll just run it until it's done, its a freebie motor from the wretched Rock Buster kit, and what the hey, I could use something else to wreck in the Hornet... I may aswell go bash the cr@p out of the hornet that it breaks into little pieces, since its going to be replaced (hopefully) by a true performance machine. Toy cars are for boys, performance cars are for big boys.

2006-01-25T22:12:00.000-05:00

Today I feel like taking a hiatus from static scale models since 1) nothing goes right, 2) I still don't have the clear windshield parts for my autos, and 3) I still don't have an airbrush so even if I get windshield parts, the lack of airbrush automatically means a failing project and probably the rest of the unbuilt model either being burned or thrown in the trash out of sheer frustration. May be I wil get the windshield parts and the masking sheet for the avex DOME MUGEN NSX and just stuff them back all in the box, its not like I can even complete the kits without windshields. I can't even paint the vehicle's bodies since I have no airbrush. If I hand painted it, it would look ugly and I'd probably end up melting it and destroying the remains.

I thought about taking up R/C models again, since it doesn't need as much precision and all that other 'has-to-be-perfect-or-its-trash' cr@p that I keep as my motto in scale statics. I thought about taking a nitro platform this time, since electric R/C is a pain in the a$$ to maintain and you can't run it for long periods without having to charge a stupid battery. Nitro R/C is better, since it's more of a 'fuel-and-go' type thing. The only thing you have to watch out for is your receiver battery, let it die and your machine dies with it. I was thinking of a nitro touring car and going for a street tuner drift theme since I'm planning on drifting it (I know electric is better, but personally, I hate electric). I am also planning it on not being a Tamiya product, since I have probably bought my last Tamiya R/C product; the Rock Buster, lousy piece of sh!t... Speaking of the Rock Buster, I decided that one side of it's suspension is droopy, and that the shocks leak oil like there is no tomorrow. No, I didn't put too much shock fluid, heck there's barely any fluid in there, I bet I could tip it over for about 10 minutes and no fluid will drip out, yet if I try to put fluid in, it leaks even more and doesn't dampen the stupid truck. What's worse is that the damn hub is still wobbly aswell as the spur. Much worse from that is that the shock's o-rings aren't rebuildable. That's a no-no, Mr. Tamiya...

I've also been thinking about a nitro truck or buggy. But then that way I wouldn't be able to drift, yet I could always drive over anything I want. The thing is that nitro trucks/buggies are expensive as f|_|ck and that there's a limited parts supply here. It's always with these Tamiya TNXs. I know, I used to like TNXs, but Tamiya products have been pissing me off for the past while and I hate it.

2006-01-22T02:06:00.000-05:00

I haven't updated in a bit, but recently I've found someone out of the country who would sell me a figure kit for a relatively low price. It is good since I'm still a beginner and it will be my first figure. I've also attempted to work on the avex DOME MUGEN NSX model, but with no success. I've screwed up the windshield like I have with my Mitsubishi GTO. So at the moment I am at a pause. I will wait until the week of February 6th so that I may go to the post office to set up a postal money order by myself, since the parents aren't keen on me purchasing things from people over the net or anyone else they don't know. After that I will also start saving for an airbrush, since my old budget one died on me. While I'm saving up for a new airbrush I will also see if I can purchase new clear sprues (runner parts) from Borgfeld (Canadian Tamiya distributor).

Onto radio controlled models; I've completed the 1/18 Tamiya Rock Buster, it is quite disappointing. When I first built it the spur gear and the spur gear hub (runner part B-3) would not properly work in conjunction with each other resulting in an un-true spinning spur gear. Whenever I mesh it with my pinion and apply a bit of throttle a loud high-pitched sound can be heard. Its awful. I've already been through two spurgears and two spur hubs and it still doesn't work. The second time was worse than the first. I roughly cut out the Rock Buster's body and made lousy body holes and mounted it. I will clean up the body holes when I get a body post hole reamer. The model is now shelfed on top of an empty 1/43 Ebbro box. Until then, I'm questioning wether I should continue to purchase and build Tamiya radio controlled models.

Anyway; onto mech modeling. Nothing has changed with the EVA-02: End of Evangelion project. It is still covered in putty and has the Lance of Longinus in its head. I'm poising the question of purchasing another EVA-02 kit, since the Lance I have in mine has been broken more than 10 times, if I remember correctly, about 13 times. It does not look like a Lance anymore, rather it looks like a branch of wood. This would surely never get any points at a modeling contest, and I would never display this on my shelf. And as my personal rule in modeling goes; if it isn't good enough to display on my shelf, then it isn't good enough to even own. So I'd rather break it and stuff it in the trash or spend more money than I have on the kit alone just to fix it.

2006-01-09T16:39:00.000-05:00

Welcome to Hobby² My name's Miki and I'll be using this blog to keep you up to date on what I'm currently thinking, projects and other such things about the hobby of scale models, wether it be figures, mechs, vehicles, radio control, computer technology or any other interesting things I may come by and want to give a review or a first look. I will also be articles about projects running around in my mind.